CHAPTER 11

Tides and Gyres

This map shows the ocean gyres and the temperature of the currents in different places in the world. (my apologies for the size of this map, but now you now what to look for on the internet).

Dorp and Sam cornered the tip of Florida and were riding the Gulf Stream up the East Coast in the Atlantic Ocean. 
The Gulf Stream goes up the East Coast quite a way. 

Being water, Sam and Dorp had nothing but time; no bills, no homework, no clothes, no cupcakes; nothing but time. 

Sam commented, “The water sure moves around a lot. I see waves and tides and the water is, er, we are moving along, having no propulsion system. If nothing we can see is pushing it, there must be a lot of energy coming from somewhere.”

“Very good, Sam. We are in the Atlantic Ocean. The energy that moves us is from solar heat, wind currents, gravity and even fish swimming through the water. But mostly, we are moved about by tides caused by solar, earth and lunar gravity. 
So then, the sun is the source of a lot of the energy that is moving us around. “ 

"And the earth rotates through its own atmosphere and through space, it creates something known as 'the Coriolis Effect'. 
It’s like turning a glass of iced tea in your hand. Though the ice cubes don’t move the same speed as the glass, they still move. The water in large areas move along a set of currents known as a gyre, which we talked about earlier.” 

Is that like a gyro? Boy, I love the taste of gyros...the meat in the pita bread. Wow.” 

“Sam, both words are rooted in the Greek word gyra, which means circle. It is also the source of the name for the instrument called the gyroscope.” 

“Mr. Dorp; there are more waves here than on the Mississippi River. Why is that?” 

“Excellent question. Waves are a sign of a disturbance in the water. “Think about the creek at your grandparents’ acreage. 
In the north pasture, the land gradually meets the waterline like a beach, but without the sand. While in the west timber, 
the creek passes through a deep ravine, where you can’t walk to the water without falling and rolling into the creek.” 

“I know that! How do you know that? Have you been there too?” 

Dorp nodded 'Yes' and continued, “Seas and oceans have the same kind of shorelines under the water. Where the bank under the water drops away gradually, you’ll see small waves as the tides ebb and flow. But if the underwater bank gets really deep in a hurry, the incoming tides will bring tall, powerful waves. Even if you can’t see underwater, often you can read the lay of the underwater terrain by watching the waves. 

“Like a secret code, eh? I have a joke. What is a sailor’s favorite jelly?” “I don’t know Sam. What is it?” “Current (currant) jelly. HA! Hey; I’ve read the words ‘ebb and flow’ in a poem about the sea. What does this mean?”

“Clever joke. 'Ebb and flow' means to retreat and advance, like the tides. Back to the discussion at hand. The gyres I spoke of earlier are large ocean currents. This gyre we’re in now is called the North Atlantic Gyre. It begins at the equator, and like all gyres in the Northern hemisphere, it moves in a clockwise direction, like the hands on a clock. The North Atlantic Gyre brings warmer water from the equator, through the Caribbean, with some of it passing through the Gulf of Mexico. This is why we are here now. It bends around the coast of Florida and follows the eastern coast of the US.” 

All the way to Canada?” asked Sam. 

Sorry; it doesn’t quite make it to Canada. It veers to the right at Virginia, due to the shape of the coast and because of currents moving south from the Labradorean Drift from the North. The North Atlantic Gyre circles around, coming down the coast of Western Europe and then to Northwest Africa. Do you ever wonder why the east coast of the US is so green, while Western Africa is so dry? 

Sure ... I guess?” 

Reader, ocean gyres are a big part of the answer. Warm ocean currents catch and release more moisture than cooler ocean currents. The North Atlantic Gyre brings warm water up the east coast of the US from the equator. The moist air above the gyre is pushed inland where it is available for precipitation. It then cycles east bring moisture to Western Europe before it cools from and hits northwest Africa. This part of Africa doesn’t get much moisture. The Northern Pacific Gyre first moves up the Southeast coast of Asia, where it dumps lots of rain, called monsoons, before it crosses over to Alaska and Canada, then cooling down at the Oregon/California border, leaving southern California and western Mexico high and dry. 

Dorp spoke to Sam more about gyres: “There are five large gyres on the planet; 
North Atlantic, 
South Atlantic, 
North Pacific, 
South Pacific 
and Indian Ocean gyres. 
They bring precipitation to the continents when their water is warm and give less moisture as they cool. Simple, no?”. 

Wow. One minute we’re talking about drought, the next minute we’re talking about gyres.” 

This made Sam wonder why people build big cities where there are deserts. This made him unhappy. 

Sam said, “Let’s talk about wet stuff. Surprise me. Tides are cool. How do they work?” 

OK, Sam. Semi-short answer for a semi-grown male. The sun occupies a place in space. The earth orbits around the sun. The moon orbits around the earth. These three objects each have gravitational fields that influence each other. Plus, the earth is mostly covered with water. The gravity of the sun, earth, and moon, pull the oceans in different directions throughout the day, as the earth turns, and rotates around the sun, and the moon moves around the earth. Just like that glass of iced tea we spoke of earlier, the water on the earth moves in funny patterns.” 

“Stop!” You’re making me dizzy!” 

“Now then Sam, these movements are called tides. Since the movement of the sun, earth and moon are predictable, the movement of the tides, is also predictable. The tides peak and recede every 12 hours and 25 minutes. 

Sam said, “Why don’t tides come every 12 hours even?” 

“The answer is too complicated for your boy-brain to understand, but it’s gravitational jet-lag

Sam thought out loud: “Life would probably be easier for a lot of folks if the tides worked a regular 12-hour shift. 
And why do you talk about my boy-brain like that?” 

“Maybe tides have recesses too, hmm? AND…your brain isn’t fully developed yet. so some knowledge isn’t easy for someone your age to understand. Savvy?” 

“OK. I have a joke about school and fish. A father said to his son: ‘I heard you skipped school today to play baseball.’ 
The son said: ‘That’s not true, Sir, and I have the fish to prove it.’” 

“Hmm. Speaking of fish, look at that Atlantic Blue Fin Tuna approaching us. It is a magnificent creature.” 

“He’s huge. Why is he here?” “Well, Sam, this is his home water. Blue Fin Tuna also lives in the Gulf of Mexico, and up the coast to Maine, across the north Atlantic to Scandinavia, then down the western European and northwest African coast. They are a big fish that have a big living room, as humans would say.” 

“As big as the North Atlantic Gyre, huh?” 

“Indeed.” 

“I’ve seen news on the TV that the Bluefin is overfished.” 

”It is, Sam.” 

“How do we fix this? By creating new laws? My dad says there are already too many laws, that we just need common sense.” 

“Your dad is correct, but greed often cancels out common sense. The surest way to limit fishing is for customers to limit their intake, so the species can restock itself. Incidentally a major consumer of the Bluefish Tuna is the sashimi sector.

“Mr. Dorp, I thought fish stuff was called sushi.” 

“The word sushi means any dish prepared with vinegar-laced rice, which may or may not contain uncooked fish. 
The word sashimi means a dish based on raw fish. The word sushi is often used incorrectly.” 

If everyone that ate Bluefin sashimi once a week would just eat Bluefin sashimi once a month, the demand would go down, 
and so would the amount of fishing. Likewise, if those that eat Bluefin sashimi once a month would just eat it once every three months, the Bluefin market would change. Other, more plentiful fish can serve as sashimi. The fishermen catching Bluefin could make a living catching other kinds of plentiful fish. Customers have the power and the responsibility to manage their appetites for a balanced ecosystem. A little self-restraint would solve most problems that humans cause. 

"Now let’s see what happens next as we dally up the eastern seaboard" Dorp said. 

"I’ve never dallied before,” giggled Sam. 

“Yes you have. I’ve seen you tinker with your homework when you really wanted to play baseball.” 

“Mr. Dorp; a human can drown in the ocean, yet a huge ship made of iron just passed by. 
How can a ship so big float, and a person drown?” 

“Excellent question, Galileo. Humans who ask good questions learn the most. 
There are certain natural and mathematical principles you have to understand to grasp this, so let’s start out small.” 

Dorp went on to talk about buoyancy; the ability of an object to float in a liquid. Water is a liquid. It moves around easily. 
A major difference between the three forms of substances (gases, liquids, and solids) is the amount of friction they exert on their neighboring molecules. Remember that a big ship can move through the water easier than a picnic table with a sail can move across your yard, even though the ship is far bigger and heavier than the table. 

This is because water exerts less friction than a lawn. 

“Friction is when one object drags against another object. The surfaces of solids can be smooth or rough. Rough surfaces create more friction than smooth surfaces. Now listen closely. Since liquids conform to whatever surface they contact, they don’t have a rough, hard surface that creates friction."

Dorp took this deeper: “Let’s talk about density of different objects. Which is heavier, a pound of gold or a pound of feathers?” 

“Ha! Trick question! They weigh the same.” 

“Correct, now, which is more dense; a pound of gold or a pound of feathers? " 

“I don’t know. What does ’dense’ mean?” 

“Sam, density is a ratio of an object’s weight in proportion to its size. A pound of gold takes less space than a pound of feathers, so…?” 

“Gold is denser?” 

“Correct! Did you know that a golf ball has about the same density as water and humans?" 

“How do we know that?” Sam quizzed Dorp. 

“That is an excellent question to ask when someone is telling you things you can’t verify on your own. 
Here is how we know; a golf ball in a glass of distilled water, it will sink. 
A golf ball in the same glass filled with sea water will float. 
If we use actual numbers, fresh water has a density of 1.0. 
Sea water has a density of 1.2. Golf balls have a density of 1.15, 
and humans have a density of .985. 
Ice has a density of .92 
and Gold has a density of 19.3. 

“So people should not drown, because we are less dense than water, and especially in salty sea water.” Sam proposed. 

"True, Sam, if people fell into water without clothes. But clothes and shoes can make a person more dense than water.” 

“What’s the solution, Mr. Dorp?” 

“Swimming lessons or life jackets, or both. Swimming lesson teach a person to fight the effects of gravity in water. 
Swim suits are less dense than street clothes. Life jackets increase a human’s volume without adding much weight. 
This makes humans less dense than the water, so they can float.” 

“Again, Mr. Dorp, (sigh) why do people drown and big ships float? 
Are ships less dense than people even though steel is a lot heavier than people?” 

“Yes, Galileo, ships filled with air are less dense than people. The density of water is 1.0, while the density of steel is about 7.8, so a piece of steel will sink in water. However, if that piece of steel is fashioned into a vessel, the air inside the ship works becomes an internal life jacket and it stays afloat. It employs the Archimedes principle.” 

“Archi-who?” 

“Archimedes, Sam. He lived about 2,400 years ago and was the first man to understand certain kinds of math. 
Archimedes’ principle states: ‘Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object.’” 

“Ouch! You just made my brain hurt. What does that mean?”

“You’ve tried to push a beach ball underwater, Sam, why is it so tough to push such a light thing underwater?” 

“I don’t know. It seems like the water pushes back” 

“Exactly!!! Gravity pulls down the water under the ball, so the water really does push back on the beach ball. 
The ball is so light, it cannot displace much water, so the water does push back.” 

“What does ‘displace’ mean? “ 

“Displace means ‘to push out the way.’ When something is put into water, that water has to go somewhere. 
It’s like at your dining room table. At a big family dinner… 

“I have to sit at the kid’s table, instead of by my dad.” 

“Exactly. You are displaced by visiting relatives. 
Now, if you had five pieces of steel, each 1/16” inch thick, and one foot square, 
and they were dropped into water, they would all sink. 
The water that used to be where the steel was, has been displaced. 
But!... If those same five panels, which weigh 2.55 pounds each, were welded into a waterproof, open-top box, 
the box would weigh about 12.75 pounds. Now, one cubic foot of water weighs…?” 

“62.38 pounds.” 

“Correct! The steel box will displace 12.75 pounds of water, and so it will set about 2.5 inches deep in the water. At this point, the five sheets of steel have become a vessel, which can not only float, but could also carry over 50 pounds of cargo.” 

“Like a ship, Mr. Dorp?” 

“Exactly! It could hold Abby.” 

“If she sat still, the little squirm-bug.” 

“So now do you understand this thing called buoyancy, Galileo?” 

“A little.”

Photo: Science Learning Hub
Photo: otlibrary.com
CHAPTER 11


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