CHAPTER 9

On the River

A lock on the river

Dorp and Sam were on their way to New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico. 

They passed through the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal. They went through the lock (see photo of similar lock) that lowered them several feet from the Sanitary Canal into the Des Plains River. They soon entered the meeting place
of the Des Plains and the Kankakee Rivers, where it became the Illinois River. This puzzled Sam. 

“How can we be in the Illinois River? You said the Illinois River emptied into the Arkansas River when we were in Kansas”. 

“Actually Sam, there are four rivers in the US named the Illinois River.” 

Sam’s eyebrows knitted up in confusion. “Is that legal?” 

Dorp said: “There is no law against it that I know of. While each state in the US has a unique name, 
this is not true of rivers or towns. 
There are 37 cities and towns in the US named Lincoln, with 12 Lincolns just in the state of Wisconsin. 
Not all of them were named after Abraham Lincoln. There is a Lincoln in England much older than President Lincoln. 
In fact, one of Abe's ancestors may have been named after that town in England."

"Many towns in the English US colonies were named after English towns. And England is not the only country that supplied names for American towns and cities. There are over a dozen US cities or towns named Paris, though none are west of Wichita, Kansas. Again, Wisconsin has two of them.” 

“Wow,” Sam said. “So, a guy could be on a car trip; fall asleep in Paris, Texas and wake up eight hours later, in Paris, Tennessee. Why are there no cites named Paris west of Wichita?” 

“I’ll leave you to study that when you get home, young man.” 

“More homework. If this keeps up, I’ll learn more this summer than I did all last year at school. 
So, you said there are four Illinois Rivers are in the US?” 

“That is correct, Sam; one in the state of Illinois, 
one in Oregon, named by miners from Illinois. 
One that runs in the states of Arkansas and Oklahoma, named by a French explorer. 
One in northern Colorado."

"This Illinois River is completely within the bounds of the state of Illinois. It is about 275 miles long and used to be a major supplier of buttons for the clothing industry.” 

“Excuse me? “Buttons?” 

Dorp explained: “Before the invention of zippers and plastics, people used shellfish to make buttons to fasten their clothes. 
Immigrants from Europe, who made buttons from animal horns back home, learned to cut coin-shaped discs out of mussel shells pulled from river. This industry employed thousands of people along the Mississippi River basin.” 

“My grandma has a big metal can full of buttons from her mother. I’ll bet some of them are shell buttons.” 

“Most likely, Sam, especially if they were made before WW I, and are whitish and pearly-shiny.” 

“Hey, I have a joke, Mr. Dorp. A woman in a restaurant called the waiter over. 
The waiter asked: ‘What’s the matter ma’am? Is there a fly in your soup?’ 
She said: ‘No; there’s a button in my jacket fries’. Whoo-hooo!” 

“Really, Sam?” 

Sam was triumphant over his latest joke. “Yup, and Oh, what is a river basin?” 

“A river basin, also called a watershed or drainage basin, is the area of land whose rain and snowmelt is collected into a particular river. While the Mississippi River is about 2,300 miles long, its watershed is about 1.2 million square miles of land. This is about 40% of the US land mass”. 

Sam sorted this information: “So once the land ‘sheds’ its water of excess rain or snow, it goes into a river and into an ocean?” 

Usually, but not always, Sam. There are two types of watersheds, exorheic drainage basins and endorheic drainage basins. 
Exorheic drainage basins eventually empty into an ocean or a sea. 
Endorheic basins are either in a desert area and the desert drinks the water before it can make it to the sea, or the water basin doesn’t produce enough water to get to an ocean. There might also be natural barriers, like mountains, that keep the water from getting to the ocean.” 

Don’t those areas with high boundaries eventually flood?” Sam asked. 

Dorp explained that lakes can exist in these areas, but there is no outflow. Eventually, the water either evaporates into the air, or percolates down through the ground to an aquifer below. The Great Salt Lake is such a system and is typical of endorheic basins. Minerals accumulate because they can’t flow to the ocean and can’t evaporate with the water. 
This is why the Great Salt Lake in Utah is so salty."  

 “How long till we get to New Orleans?” Sam asked.

“It is about 1,400 miles from Chicago to New Orleans. The Mississippi River travels at speeds from 1.2 miles per hour at its source, to 3 miles per hour at New Orleans, in normal flows. The river can move 10 miles per hour during a flood. 
But if we calculate an average speed of 2.5 miles per hour, it will take us about 23 days to get to New Orleans.” 

“Really?” What will we do for that long?” moaned Sam. 

“Sam, we have no control over that. We just are. Besides, we’ve been going for three days already. It takes about 4 ½ days total to reach the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. This is close to the town of Grafton, Illinois, a town of about 700 people. Grafton had a population of 10,000 in the 1850s when fishing was better and there was a shipyard in town, and the limestone mines were busy before concrete became common. 

“Really? So why do they not make buttons from shells anymore? Wait; what is a confluence?” 

Dorp said, “A 'confluence' is where two rivers come together. They come together because gravity and the terrain made them want to use the same piece of land to run downhill. The two streams, creeks or rivers join together and become bigger. Sometimes the new river keeps the name of one of the old rivers, and sometimes it gets a new name. 
But also, I see you’re still stuck on that button topic. 
It is now more economical to make buttons from plastic. Plus, many rivers are now too polluted to sustain the marine life necessary to make the mollusks for buttons. Chemicals coming in the water kill living things in the water." 

“Where does this pollution come from?” 

Dorp answered, “Agricultural and lawn runoff, industrial wastes, and effluent from city sewage treatment plants.” 

“Mr. Dorp, why does Chicago take its drinking water from the Great Lakes and empty it into the Mississippi River? 

“Sam, Chicago learned a lesson that still plagues humanity today. The human digestive tract is a one-way street and the end should not meet the beginning. When body wastes mingle with drinking water, people get sick, and can die. Fecal matter (poop) can contain deadly germs, like cholera and typhoid. These two diseases killed millions of people in the 1800s. Stephen Douglas, Abraham Lincoln's opponent in the 1860 Presidential election, died in Chicago in 1861 from typhoid fever. 
Although Chicago had fewer deaths than other places, they built the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal to keep their sewage away from their fresh-water supply. This was before they learned how to better purify sewage.

“But what does that do for the towns downstream?” 

“This is yet another human conflict that comes from people having to share water.” 

 “A day and a half until we reach the Mississippi River? Where will we spend the night? 

“Oh, Sam, we’ll spend tonight and several more in the river. This life is my unending fate unless I am changed back into the gases of oxygen and hydrogen.” 

“Do you ever wish you could be changed back?” 

“I would still be going through people, plants and animals. The only difference is that as a gas it would be harder to trap me or freeze me. Though…If I became liquid oxygen, I could help propel a rocket ship and then spend forever in outer space, doing absolutely nothing. How would you like to do that Sam?” 

“Maybe for a couple of days. I’ll bet there are cool sights, but I would get bored, I’m sure.” 
In fact, I guess I miss some of my TV programs.” 

“…And your video games, and your mom’s chocolate chip cookies?” 

“Yum. How is it I can miss food when I can’t get hungry?"  

"Humans have traits called habits. Once a human does something for a few times, something in them wants to do it regularly. This is a good thing if it is a job skill, but it is a bad thing if it is an addiction.” 

Dorp and Sam approached Grafton, Illinois, where the Illinois River and Mississippi rivers run parallel like railroad tracks,
for about five miles before joining confluencing (my word). 
This strip of land is named Calhoun County, also called ‘The Kingdom’ by locals. 
Dorps call it ‘The Illinois Peninsula’. 

Sam saw a flat boat called a ferry with cars and people going across the river from one riverbank to the other. There is a 37-mile stretch of the Illinois/Mississippi River, from East Hardin to Alton, Illinois with no bridge across the river. Bridges that cross large rivers cost a lot to build. The Mississippi River, for example, is about 2,300 miles long and has just 220 bridges across it. This doesn’t meet everyone’s needs, so ferries still have a place in modern life. 

New York City is a series of islands and has a ferry system that many non-locals just call the Staten Island Ferry
That fleet of ferries give 3-4 million rides per year. 

They floated past Grafton and joined the Mississippi River at Island 526. They were nearly to St. Louis, Missouri. 
On the north end of the city, they came upon the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. 

Dorp spoke: “Well Sam, the Upper Mississippi River began in Minnesota and ends here in St. Louis and thus begins the Middle Mississippi River.” 

They floated through St. Louis and saw the Arch approaching, just above the Eads Bridge. 
(Actually, they were approaching the Arch. The Arch pretty much stays where it is. That’s the way people like it. 
It’s easier to visit the Arch when it stays in one place). 

“If you had a great, great arm, you could throw a baseball through the Arch right now and it would land in the stadium where the St. Louis Cardinals play. Between the diamond and the Arch is St. Louis Community College, which I’m sure has lower class attendance the days the Cards play a home game.” 

“I wish we could stop and see a game, Mr. Dorp. Man. That Arch is a lot bigger than it looks in pictures.” 

Dorp gave Sam the details: “It’ is 630 feet tall, 630 feet wide, and its shape is called a 'weighted catenary.' 
A pure catenary resembles the shape of a chain hanging by its ends; a very graceful, very strong design. The catenary is used as a structural design by architects; especially in bridges.” 

Hey! I learned something in school. The word architect has the word ‘arch’ in it!“ 

That’s right, Sam. The discovery of the arch was the key to building structures with openings that were self-supporting. 
It’s one thing to build a wall. It’s quite another thing to be able to get through the wall, especially if the wall is part of house. Arches placed end-to-end are called arcades, 
arches built side-to-side are called vaults, 
and arches in a circle are called domes. 
Bridges, which are critical to our road system, rely on arches to carry loads across rivers and ravines. 

They passed through St. Louis and continued south and west. They managed to not be evaporated by the breezes and winds that blew up and down the river, or by the sun that shone directly above the river, pulling hooptillions of other water molecules out of the river. 

But they were ingested and released a few times by channel catfish. 

“So that’s what a catch and release feels like,” Sam said. “There are so many creatures here in the water that I have never seen before. I guess it’s because we are so small now, I can see them. A little bluegill looks like a stadium.” 

“That’s right, Sam. Things that were once too small to see when you were a boy, are now big enough to eat you.” 

“I have a joke. What state does the Mississippi River flow in? “ 
“It flows in a liquid state.” 

“That’s actually clever. Now I have a riddle for you. There are three pairs of states that touch each other, both geographically and alphabetically. They are all east of the Missouri River. Can you name them?” 

“Not without a map to look at. Sigh. More homework.” 

Dorp announced: “Big event coming up soon. We are nearing Cairo, Illinois, about to be joined by the Ohio River. 
Look! the Ohio River is actually larger here than the Mississippi River.” 

“The Ohio River. And does the Ohio River begin in Ohio? Please, oh please, tell me that it does.” 

“Sorry Sam. The Ohio River begins in Pennsylvania, and acts as a watershed for water from the states of Ohio, Indiana, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, and even New York. 
The name Ohio, given to both the river and the state, was an Iroquois Indian name that meant ‘good water.’” 

“Aargh, matey.” Sam said in his best pirate voice. “I see. So is the Ohio River joining the Mississippi River, or is the Mississippi River joining the Ohio River?”

“Good question. It is here that the Mississippi is labeled the Lower Mississippi River. If we go strictly by size, called the largest branch criterion, the Lower Mississippi should be called the Ohio River, but it isn’t. Incidentally Sam, there are no locks, dams, or complete blockages of the river between here and New Orleans, about 1,000 miles away.” 

“Another thing that might interest you; Up the Ohio River is a town called Kenova, West Virginia. Its name is 'portmanteau', a combining of two or more other names. Kentucky, Ohio and Virginia gave Kenova its name. Other portmanteaus are Delmarva, Georgalina, Illiana, Arkmo, Idavada.” 

They passed several cities and towns on either side of the bank. After a time, Dorp pointed out a loop in the river near the boot heel of Missouri, by a town called New Madrid. Though not a big city, it still has very special place in American history and in geological studies. 

New Madrid, Missouri was first settled by a group of Spanish explorers in the 1700s, hence the name. But what is important about this town is what is underground, where we can’t see. 
This area of land where Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, Arkansas, and Tennessee sort of come together, sits on a spot called 
The New Madrid Seismic Zone. Several earthquake faults pass through this area. In the winter of 1811-1812, there were multiple earthquakes here that liquefied the topsoil in the area and opened holes in the river that swallowed entire boats and islands in the river. 

It spit chunks of coal and sulfur into the air, raised and lowered different sections of the river, and made part of the Mississippi River run backwards for a time at the speed of a trotting horse. One survivor said his boat was pushed four miles back up the river. 
The earthquakes rang church bells as far away as Boston, and Reelfoot Lake was created in nearby Tennessee. 
Naturalist James Audubon was in the area at the time of this event and wrote about riding his horse in Kentucky through the tremors. Relatives of the Presidents Roosevelt were killed on a steamboat near here and some thirty flatboats and crews were lost, apparently disappearing into the holes in the river, never to be seen again. 

 When Dorp told this to Sam, he was amazed: “People just disappeared? The river spit out chunks of coal? From underneath the ground?” 

“Yes, Sam, eyewitnesses said the river ran black with coal dust in some places. There were also several waterfalls created that the river soon eroded smooth again. And this problem isn’t over. Seismic experts feel this will happen again, perhaps creating problems on a national level. Several bridges and underground pipelines in the area could be destroyed.” 

Sam did a facepalm. “Well, this is certainly a happy turn of events. I thought the Midwest was safe from things like tsunamis, but now I’m not so sure.” 

They continued downstream and meandered toward the Gulf of Mexico, sometimes going south, sometimes going east, sometimes going west, and sometimes going north through an oxbow, but always going lower in elevation. 

They passed the city of Osceola, Arkansas. Dorp noted that twenty-one states have a town or a city named Osceola, 
probably after a White/Creek Indian who lived with the Seminole Tribe in Florida and took part in the Seminole uprising in 1835. He was arrested when he thought he was going to Georgia to talk terms of a peace treaty. This betrayal angered even fully white Americans, which may be why so many towns were named after him. Wisconsin has one town named Osceola. 

Just above Memphis, Tennessee, Dorp pointed to the west and said, “Behold the state of Tennessee.” 

Sam challenged Dorp: “I know my geography better than that. Tennessee is on the east side of the river  
and Arkansas is on the west side of the river.” 

“Not completely, Sam. In March of 1876 on this spot at Reverie, Tennessee, the Mississippi River straightened itself, cutting through an oxbow. That place is now named the Centennial Cut-off. Reverie, Tennessee then didn’t know which state it belonged to, since it was now on the Arkansas side of the river. The US Supreme Court decided in 1918 that state boundaries should not be moved if a river changes its flow. This is why it is still Reverie, Tennessee, not Reverie, Arkansas. “

“When you get home, look in your atlas and see just how many boundaries are formed by water, which helps bring peace. 
Many wars between tribes, peoples, and nations have been prevented by the presence of both still and running waters. People seem to respect established waters, often more than they respect the people that live on the other side of the water.” 

“Now off we go to Memphis, Tennessee, the biggest city on the Mississippi River.” 

Why is a loop in the river called an oxbow?” asked Sam. 

Humans have long used animals to do work for them,” Dorp explained. They use dogs to help them herd their flocks. 
They use horses to carry them faster and farther than they can run. They also used oxen to pull wagons and farming implements. Oxen are a special type of cattle, specially adapted to pulling loads. They are hooked to their loads by a linkage called a harness. 
The oxen are connected to this linkage by a half-round wooden piece around their necks. This piece is called an oxbow. 
It is shaped like a bow that is bent way back to shoot an arrow. Ox-bow, eh?
A loop in a river looked a lot an oxbow to pioneers going west.”

“I have a joke. Why are rivers rich? Because they have two banks. Are we almost to Memphis? Thank you very much.” 

A history of Memphis for our readers: 
Memphis, way back, was explored by both the Spanish and the French. Spain had a fortress here at one time. Memphis has long been a major shipping point for products grown, logged, and mined east and southeast of Memphis. Their products were shipped down the river as far away as New Orleans. This means that boats from other countries bring and carry away products and people around the world. 

In the early days, producers used flat boats that went with the current, often all the way from Ohio to Natchez, Mississippi, or New Orleans, Louisiana. Abraham Lincoln made a couple of these trips from Indiana to New Orleans, where he witnessed a slave auction.” 

Sam saw a steam-powered paddle boat.

“Look at the big boat!” shouted Sam. “I’ve seen them in our history book. Do they really still use those? “ 

“Absolutely, for tourism. That is a sternwheeler. 

 “Why is it called a sternwheeler?” Sam asked. “Does it frown all the time?” 

“No, its paddlewheel is in the rear of the boat, also called the stern. The stern-wheeler and the side-wheeler are two types of steam-powered paddle-wheelers that have traveled American waterways since the 1780s. Robert Fulton made upstream-power travel viable by building a practical steam engine. Before steam power, many rivers could only be traveled downstream, or upstream by rowing, real hard work. 
With the steamboat, settlements were begun in the white man’s west. Old remote settlements turned into cities. Steamboats pushed up the Missouri River, even to places like Yankton, South Dakota; Bismarck, North Dakota, and Bozeman, Montana.” 

“Hmmm,” Sam thought. ‘I could have written an advertising jingle for them: 
(Sam sang) “‘Up stream travel-no longer a dream; go upstream with steam, yeahhh.’ 
Wait; then did steamboats do away with flat boats?” 

“Not at first. Before the steamboats, the boatman’s trip back home could take 3 months to walk. Abe Lincoln went to New Orleans on a flatboat, then bought a ticket home on a steamboat and made it home in a matter of days. Eventually, the faster steamboats on the river reduced shipping prices and made flatboats impractical. After that, people just floated down the river for adventure.” 

“Then why are the steamboats no longer regularly running?” asked Sam. 

“Steamboats replaced flatboats. Steamboats helped develop new towns upstream on the many rivers that fed the Mississippi. But after steam-powered boats helped open the west to white people, steam-powered trains followed behind and moved people and freight faster, and to more places than steamboats could go, especially once they learned to build railroad trestles over rivers and gullies, using the principle of the arch, I might add. 

Sam thought, “I’ve read Huck Finn. I would like to do that one day.” 

“Sam! Think! You’re doing that right now. You just don’t have a boat and don’t have to concern yourself with a water accident. 

Speaking of Mark Twain; he, Faulkner and others wrote books set on the Mississippi. Several country and blues artists have written songs about this river. Poems have also been written about it. It is a central part of life in Middle America. 
On to New Orleans and the Gulf of Mexico.

A few miles south, Dorp looked east and pointed out the Mississippi Delta to Sam. 

“Do you mean were at New Orleans already, Mr. Dorp?” 

“No, I said Mississippi Delta, not Mississippi River Delta. They are two different places and two different ecosystems. 
The boundaries of the Mississippi Delta are the upper third of the state of Mississippi, and from the Yazoo River to the Mississippi River. The Mississippi River Delta is a few hundred miles south yet. I know this might be confusing to your boy-brain, but there is a difference.” 

A couple of days later, Sam and Dorp became entangled with a plastic bag in the river. Sam became quite irritated because the bag was tan and they could almost see through it, but not quite. 

Dorp commented on Sam’s attitude. “Having trouble? Don’t you like being trapped in a plastic bag?” 

“No, I don’t!” Sam yelled. Why am I stuck in this stupid bag where I can’t see? Why is this bag even in the river?” 

“Why Sam, haven’t you ever lost control of a plastic bag when you are out running errands? Haven’t you ever taken something out of a bag and then the bag blew away?” 

“Well yes,” Sam said. “but I don’t throw plastic bags in the river. That’s littering.” 

“True,” said Dorp, “but many of the bags that get blown away end up in the nearest waterway and eventually find their way to the oceans of the world. The wind even takes bags from landfills and carries them to the water. 

“Then what happens to these bags, Mr. Dorp?” 

“Just like toilet paper congregates in the middle of the toilet bowl before it disappears in a flush, plastic bags find their way to the center of an ocean because of currents. Every ocean and major sea have what is called a garbage patch, where the plastic collects. These garbage patches can be several square miles in size and are made not only of stuff dumped from ships, but mostly from bags like this, that blow away.” 

“How do we get out of this mess?” 

“We hope the currents and eddies in the river will twist the bag, so we are freed. But even so, many dorps are trapped in plastic bags in the water, and many water creatures die in these bags. I find it interesting that many people who claim to be environmentalists use plastic bags. With cloth shopping bags available, they are an unnecessary hazard to the environment.” 

They got out of the bag three days later and floated generally south several more days. Sam was glad to get out of the bag. It was like wearing sunglasses at night; hard to see anything. 

About 125 northwest of New Orleans, they approached a confluence of two rivers north of the town of Simmesport, Louisiana. 

“What’s this place about?” 

“Most of the time when two rivers join, one is called a tributary because the smaller river feeds the larger river. 
Not here. This Red River mingles with the Mississippi River without emptying into it. Instead, The Red River and part of the Mississippi River join and form the Atchafalaya River and head south by west while the rest of the Mississippi River heads south by east to New Orleans. 

Rather than being a tributary, it has become a distributary of the Mississippi River. The Mississippi River wants to shift its waters to the Atchafalaya River and take that river over and follow its course.” 

Sam asked, “Why is that?” 

“Well, remember that water always follows the course of least resistance. You have seen the dry oxbows where the river bypasses inefficient curves in the land. The Mississippi River wants to do the same thing here, which would isolate Baton Rouge and New Orleans.” 

They continued and soon enough were in New Orleans. 

“I wish we could stop and get a muffuletta,” 

Sam said, even though he couldn’t get hungry, he still had the habit for eating. Eating took up a lot of his boy-life. 
You could tell by the family grocery bill. 

“Maybe someone in that cruise ship will throw you part of a crust. Even a crumb would be hugely bigger than you. 
How do you know about muffulettas?” 

“My folks watch cooking shows. I see a lot of food I’ve never eaten. Look at the cruise ship. I didn’t know that cruise ships came to New Orleans.” 

 “Some do, Sam; those that carry about half the passengers of the really big ones. Look seaward. 
We are about to enter the Mississippi River Delta.” 

“The Delta-delta?” Sam asked suspiciously.

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CHAPTER 9

bayou
photo: worldatlas.com
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